29日,戴比爾斯集團宣布推出一家名為Lightbox Jewelry的新公司,該公司將于9月份開始銷售合成鉆石(實驗室生長的鉆石)首飾,為消費者提供比現更便宜的高品質合成鉆石。
Lightbox Jewelry的報價表:合成鉆石價格為0.25ct的鉆石200美元(約全1400元人民幣),1.00ct的800美元(約全5600人民幣),并且這些合成鉆石包括藍色、粉色的彩色鉆石。
戴比爾斯(De Beers)公司還保證,Lightbox Jewelry公司投入市場的所有0.2ct以上的合成都有特殊的識別標志。
戴比爾斯原文如下:
為什么要賣合成鉆石?
New strategy will undercut prices of lab-grown diamonds
Company had long vowed never to sell man-made diamond jewelryDe Beers, which almost single-handedly created the allure of diamonds as rare, expensive and the symbol of eternal love, now wants to sell you some party jewelry that is anything but.
新戰略將降低實驗室生產的鉆石的價格。
公司早就發誓永遠不賣人造鉆石首飾。戴比爾斯幾乎是單槍匹馬地創造了鉆石的魅力,因為它稀有,昂貴,象征著永恒的愛情,現在,它想賣給你一些“派對”上的珠寶,這絕不是什么都不可能的。
The company announced today that it will start selling man-made diamond jewelry at a fraction of the price of mined gems, marking a historic shift for the world’s biggest diamond miner, which vowed for years that it wouldn’t sell stones created in laboratories. The strategy is designed to undercut rival lab-diamond makers, who having been trying to make inroads into the $80 billion gem industry.De Beers will target younger spenders with its new diamond brand and try to capture customers that have been resistant to splurging on expensive jewelry. The company is betting that it can split the market -- with mined gems in luxury settings and engagement rings at the top, and lab-made fashion jewelry aimed at millennials at the bottom.
該公司今天宣布,將開始以開采鉆石的一小部分價格銷售人造鉆石首飾,這標志著這家全球最大鉆石礦商的歷史性轉變。這家全球最大的鉆石礦商多年來一直發誓不會出售實驗室生產的鉆石。該戰略旨在削弱競爭對手實驗室-鉆石制造商,他們一直試圖打入價值800億美元的寶石行業。戴比爾斯將以新的鉆石品牌為目標,瞄準年輕的消費者,并試圖吸引那些不愿在昂貴珠寶上揮霍的客戶。該公司押注的是,它可以分割市場-在奢華的環境下開采寶石,頂部是訂婚戒指,底層是實驗室制作的針對千禧一代的時尚首飾。
‘Not Special’
“Lab grown are not special, they’re not real, they’re not unique. You can make exactly the same one again and again,” Bruce Cleaver, chief executive officer of De Beers, said in an interview Tuesday.
“非特殊”
實驗室生長的寶石并不特殊,它們不是真實的,也不是獨一無二的。你可以一次又一次地做同樣的事情,“戴比爾斯首席執行官布魯斯·克萊弗(BruceCleaver)周二接受采訪時說。
Unlike imitation gems such as cubic zirconia, diamonds grown in labs have the same physical characteristics and chemical makeup as mined stones. They’re made from a carbon seed placed in a microwave chamber and superheated into a glowing plasma ball. The process creates particles that can eventually crystallize into diamonds in weeks. The technology is so advanced that experts need a machine to distinguish between synthesized and mined gems.
與人造寶石如立方氧化鋯不同,在實驗室中生長的鉆石具有與開采的石頭相同的物理特性和化學成分。它們是由放置在微波室中的碳種子制成的,過熱后會變成一個發光的等離子球。這個過程產生的粒子最終會在幾周內結晶成鉆石。這項技術是如此先進,以至于專家們需要一臺機器來區分合成寶石和開采寶石。
A host of lab-grown diamond makers and retailers have sprung up in recent years. Diamond Foundry, one of the biggest producers, grows diamonds in a California laboratory and has been backed by Leonardo DiCaprio. Warren Buffett’s Helzberg’s Diamond Shops Inc. also sells the stones.
近年來,大量實驗室培育的鉆石生產商和零售商紛紛涌現。鉆石鑄造公司是美國最大的鉆石生產商之一,在加州的一個實驗室里生產鉆石,并得到了萊昂納多·迪卡普里奧的支持。沃倫·巴菲特(Warren Buffett)旗下的Helzberg鉆石店公司也出售這些鉆石。
Customers are currently “confused” by the difference between mined and lab-produced diamonds, Cleaver said. De Beers is hoping to create big price gap with its new product, which will sell under the name Lightbox in the U.S. A 1-carat man-made diamond sells for about $4,000 and a similar natural diamond fetches roughly $8,000. The lab diamonds from De Beers will sell for about $800 a carat.
Cleaver說,客戶目前對所開采的鉆石和實驗室生產的鉆石之間的差異感到“困惑”.戴比爾斯希望與其新產品創造巨大的價格差距,新產品將在美國以Lightbox的名義銷售。一顆1克拉人造鉆石的售價約為4000美元,而類似的天然鉆石售價約為8000美元。來自戴比爾斯的實驗室鉆石將以每克拉800美元的價格出售。
Lowest Cost
Still, De Beers says that its move isn’t to disrupt existing lab-diamond producers, but create a small, profitable business in its own right.
最低成本
盡管如此,戴比爾斯說,其舉措并不是破壞現有的實驗室鉆石生產商,而是創造一個小的,有利可圖的業務本身。
Given we are the lowest-cost producer, we can make a good business out of this,” Cleaver said. “We have the tools, why wouldn’t we do this?”
考慮到我們是成本最低的生產商,我們可以利用這一點來創造一個好生意?!翱死锔フf?!拔覀冇泄ぞ撸瑸槭裁床贿@么做呢?”
De Beers is so adamant that the man-made diamonds are not competing with mined stones that it will not grade them in the traditional way. That’s a stark contrast to current man-made sellers who offer ratings such as clarity and color, replicating terminology used for natural stones.
戴比爾斯非常堅定,以至于人造鉆石沒有與開采出來的鉆石競爭,因此它不會按照傳統的方式對它們進行評級。這與目前的人造賣家形成了鮮明的對比,后者提供清晰度和顏色等評級,復制了天然寶石的術語。
“We’re not grading our lab-grown diamonds because we don’t think they deserve to be graded,” Cleaver said. “They’re all the same.”
“我們沒有對實驗室生產的鉆石進行評級,因為我們認為它們不應該被分級,”克里弗說?!八麄兌家粯印?/p>
The pricing strategy will also be different. De Beers plans to charge $200 for a quarter-carat, $400 for a half and $800 for a carat, another sharp break from natural stones that rise exponentially in price the bigger the diamond gets.
定價策略也會有所不同。戴比爾斯計劃對四分之一克拉的鉆石收取200美元,半克拉400美元,一克拉800美元,這也是鉆石越大,天然寶石的價格就會指數上升的另一個急劇突破。
Man-Made Gems
While De Beers has never sold man-made diamonds for jewelry before, it’s very good at making them. The company’s Element Six unit is one of the world’s leading producers of synthetic diamonds, which are mostly used for industrial purposes. It has also been producing gem-quality stones for years to help it tell the difference between natural and man-made types and to reassure consumers that they’re buying the real thing.
人造寶石
雖然戴比爾斯以前從未出售過人造鉆石飾品,但它非常擅長制作它們。該公司的Element Six是世界上主要的人造鉆石生產商之一,這些鉆石主要用于工業用途。多年來,該公司也一直在生產寶石質量的寶石,以幫助它分辨出天然和人造寶石的不同之處,并讓消費者放心,他們正在購買真正的鉆石。
Man-made gems currently make up a small part of the diamond market, but demand is increasing. Global diamond production was about 142 million carats last year, according to analyst Paul Zimnisky. That compares with lab production of less than 4.2 million carats, according to Bonas & Co.
人造寶石目前只占鉆石市場的一小部分,但需求卻在增長.據分析師PaulZimnisky介紹,去年全球鉆石產量約為1.42億克拉。而根據Bonas&Co的數據,實驗室生產的克拉數還不到420萬克拉。
De Beers has been researching lab-made diamonds since the end of World War II and accelerated its work after a Swedish company synthesized the first diamond in 1953. The company has focused on lab diamonds for industrial uses, but also kept investing in technology for jewelry-grade gems.
自從第二次世界大戰結束以來,戴比爾斯一直在研究實驗室制造的鉆石,并在1953年瑞典公司合成了第一顆鉆石之后加快了工作。該公司專注于工業用途的實驗室鉆石,但也不斷投資于珠寶級寶石的技術。
The shift to lab-diamond jewelry comes at a sensitive time for De Beers and its relationship with Botswana, the source of three-quarters of its diamonds. The two have a sales agreement that lets the company market and sell gems from Botswana, giving De Beers its power over global prices. The deal will soon be up for negotiation and Botswana is likely to push for more concessions.
向實驗室鉆石首飾的轉變,正值戴比爾斯及其與博茨瓦納關系的敏感時刻,博茨瓦納是其四分之三的鉆石來源。這兩家公司有一份銷售協議,允許該公司銷售博茨瓦納的寶石,從而使戴比爾斯在全球價格上擁有強大的權力。該協議不久將開始談判,博茨瓦納可能會推動更多的讓步。
On Tuesday, De Beers said it had extensive talks with Botswana about the decision to sell man-made diamonds and the country supports the move.
(Updates with CEO comments from fourth paragraph.)
周二,戴比爾斯表示,他們與博茨瓦納就出售人造鉆石的決定進行了廣泛的談判,該國支持這一決定。(更新第四段的CEO評論。)
不過,也有行業人士認為:???????
1、戴比爾斯推出的這個新品牌只是一個飾品品牌,請注意,是飾品不是珠寶。跟中國義烏、廣州等地小商品市場上推出的飾品本質上沒什么兩樣,無非是選的是實驗室培育出的鉆石而已。
2、目前只是針對美國市場。中國市場因為國家珠寶玉石質量監督檢驗中心(簡稱NGTC),國內消費者根深蒂固的對天然鉆石和培育鉆石或合成鉆石不存在混淆問題。
3、在所有的0.2ct或以上的實驗室合成鉆石內部永久性的印上了Lightbox標識。該標識不為肉眼可見,但在放大鏡下觀察 清晰可辨。
4、價格只與重量有關,和其他無關。零售價格為200美元(0.25ct)到800美元(1ct)不等。也就是說鉆石的4C標準不適用這類鉆石,所以這類鉆石也不會有鉆石分級證書。
5、不銷售成品裸鉆。也就是說市場上可以見到的只能是鑲嵌好的成品首飾,或者叫飾品更合適。